So lucky. We woke to a cloudless sky, and – after doubling down on the prepaid all you can eat hotel breakfast – had time to spend the final morning of the trip walking in warm sunshine. Up over the hill, past the Pearl, and back down to the bay on the other side. A quick stop at the Viking Cow – a major landmark, according to the maps, though we’re unclear why –

but after that it was all fresh air and gawping at the scenery.

And so, after 45 days, a bus to Keflavik airport and an obligatory shrimp smorrebrod and beer. Not quite as good as the one I had 10 years ago in this airport, but still a lovely way to say goodbye to a gorgeous place and a fabulous trip.