Later dinner–by our standards. At 10:30 the dinner hour was really just beginning.

In any event, since we’d had a large late lunch, we decided to split the alcachofa hamburguesa. Best veggie burger I have ever had.

Had to interrogate the owner so I can hopefully recreate this at home. Cook your artichokes in a small amount of water, then finely chop them with their cooking liquid (so as to not lose any flavor). Add some soft chickpeas (to bind it together), along with olive oil, salt, and pepper to taste. Sear the patties on a hot plancha. Serve on a bun with roasted red pepper, aioli, caramelized onion, and a little spicy brava sauce.

The plan, or fantasy, was to wind our way up the coast, stopping to view a couple of spectacular castles clinging to cliffs above the blue Mediterranean.

Picked up the rental car, no problem, and it poured with rain all day.

Nice lunch stop at a tiny mom and pop restaurant where about ten Spanish men around one table were engaged in competitive high-decibel conviviality.

Then onward up the autopista at 120 kph under low grey clouds and more rain.

Found our slightly sketchy but brilliantly located apartment. It’s in the taller building at left, overlooking Placa de la Font, the central square of old Tarragona.

The Placa is now dominated by the lovely C.19 town hall – and brave people seated under heaters at a dozen or more outside restaurants. But 2000 years ago this space was a Roman stadium used for chariot races.

Now drinking wine in a quiet bar around the back of the town hall. K especially taken with her “semi-seco” blend of gewurztraminer and chardonnay.